Containing 2,729 entries, Kevin L. Seligman’s bibliography concentrates on books, manuals, journals, and catalogs covering a wide range of sartorial approaches over nearly five hundred years. After a historical overview, Seligman approaches his subject chronologically, listing items by century through 1799, then by decade. In this section, he deals with works on flat patterning, draping, grading, and tailoring techniques as well as on such related topics as accessories, armor, civil costumes, clerical costumes, dressmakers’ systems, fur, gloves, leather, military uniforms, and undergarments. Seligman then devotes a section to those American and English journals published for the professional tailor and dressmaker. Here, too, he includes the related areas of fur and undergarments. A section devoted to journal articles features selected articles from costume- and noncostumerelated professional journals and periodicals. The author breaks these articles down into three categories: American, English, and other. Seligman then devotes separate sections to other related areas, providing alphabetical listings of books and professional journals for costume and dance, dolls, folk and national dress, footwear, millinery, and wigmaking and hair. A section devoted to commercial pattern companies, periodicals, and catalogs is followed by an appendix covering pattern companies, publishers, and publications. In addition to full bibliographic notation, Seligman provides a library call number and library location if that information is available. The majority of the listings are annotated. Each listing is coded for identification and cross-referencing. An author index, a title index, a subject index, and a chronological index will guide readers to the material they want. Seligman’s historical review of the development of publications on the sartorial arts, professional journals, and the commercial paper pattern industry puts the bibliographical material into context. An appendix provides a cross-reference guide for research on American and English pattern companies, publishers, and publications. Given the size and scope of the bibliography, there is no other reference work even remotely like it.

Thornton International System of Garment Cutting is an unchanged, high-quality reprint of the original edition of 1885. Hansebooks is editor of the literature on different topic areas such as research and science, travel and expeditions, cooking and nutrition, medicine, and other genres. As a publisher we focus on the preservation of historical literature. Many works of historical writers and scientists are available today as antiques only. Hansebooks newly publishes these books and contributes to the preservation of literature which has become rare and historical knowledge for the future.

The basic concepts behind sizing systems currently used in the manufacture of ready-to-wear garments were originally developed in the 19th century. These systems are frequently based on outdated anthropometric data, they lack standard labelling, and they generally do not accommodate the wide variations of body sizes and proportions that exist in the population. However, major technological improvements have made new population data available worldwide, with the potential to affect the future of sizing in many ways. New developments in computer-aided design and sophisticated mathematical and statistical methods of categorizing different body shapes can also contribute to the development of more effective sizing systems. This important book provides a critical appreciation of the key technological and scientific developments in sizing and their application.The first chapter in the book discusses the history of sizing systems and how this has affected the mass production of ready-to-wear clothing. Chapters two and three review methods for constructing new and adapting existing sizing systems, and the standardisation of national and international sizing systems. Marketing and fit models are reviewed in chapter four whilst chapter five presents an analysis of the grading process used to create size sets. Chapters six and seven discuss fit and sizing strategies in relation to function, and the communication of sizing. Mass customization and a discussion of material properties and their affect on sizing are addressed in chapters eight and nine. Military sizing and the aesthetics of sizing are detailed in chapters ten and eleven. The final chapter reviews the impact on sizing of production systems and specifications.Written by an international team of contributors, this book is an essential reference to researchers, designers, students and manufacturers in the clothing and fashion industry. - Provides a critical appreciation of key technological and scientific developments in sizing and their application - Discusses how developments in sizing affect the mass production of ready to wear clothing - Reviews methods of constructing new and adapting existing sizing systems

Dressing Global Bodies addresses the complex politics of dress and fashion from a global perspective spanning four centuries, tying the early global to more contemporary times, to reveal clothing practice as a key cultural phenomenon and mechanism of defining one’s identity. This collection of essays explores how garments reflect the hierarchies of value, collective and personal inclinations, religious norms and conversions. Apparel is now recognized for its seminal role in global, colonial and post-colonial engagements and for its role in personal and collective expression. Patterns of exchange and commerce are discussed by contributing authors to analyse powerful and diverse colonial and postcolonial practices. This volume rejects assumptions surrounding a purportedly all-powerful Western metropolitan fashion system and instead aims to emphasize how diverse populations seized agency through the fashioning of dress. Dressing Global Bodies contributes to a growing scholarship considering gender and race, place and politics through the close critical analysis of dress and fashion; it is an indispensable volume for students of history and especially those interested in fashion, textiles, material culture and the body across a wide time frame.

A Tailoring Guide to Pattern Drafting offers pattern drafting instructions for men’s most popular tailored garment styles from 1850 to 1900, used in theatres and film productions today. The book features a wide range of 19th-century garments, providing information and detailed instructions on the frock coat, morning coat, lounge jacket, smoking jacket, shirt, waistcoats, trousers and long-riding breeches. It includes a brief history of each garment, accompanied by colourful illustrations and easy-to-follow instruction to draft historical 19th-century silhouettes for modern performances. The book features: A brief history of each garment, accompanied by full-colour illustrations. Modern step-by-step instructions with clear diagrams to draft 19th-century menswear. Instructions incorporating both the imperial and metric systems. Recommendations on choosing the appropriate modern-day equivalent fabric. Recommendations on the quantity of the fabric. Recommendations on the button size to make the garment appear more authentic. A table of Dress Code Ethics for Gentlemen from 1850 to 1900. Descriptions and visual information on how to take accurate measurements. Photographs of costumes and images of the 19th-century Carte de Visite for visual support. A Tailoring Guide to Pattern Drafting is intended for anyone with a desire to learn or refine their costume-cutting skills for theatre and film production. The book is aimed at undergraduate and graduate students, tutors and both amateur and professional makers interested in the subject. To access the author’s YouTube channel, featuring 130 step-by-step lessons to make a 19th-century Morning Coat using classical tailoring techniques, visit www.routledge.com/9780367265335.

This book explores the intersections between wearable objects and human health, with particular emphasis on how artists and designers are creatively responding to and rethinking these relations. Addressing a rich range of wearable artefacts, from mobility aids and prosthetics to clothing and accessories to digital health tracking devices, its themes include care and cure; wellness culture and the commoditization of health; and the complex interactions between (human) bodies and (non-human) objects. With a theoretical framework inspired by the work of materialist thinkers including Sherry Turkle, Bruno Latour and Jane Bennett, and bringing the disciplinary fields of fashion studies, art and design practice, and medical and health humanities into dialogue for the first time, this volume draws attention to the complex agencies entangled in the things we wear, and situates fashion and art in relation to broader cultural and historical contexts of health, illness and disability.

High-Performance Apparel: Materials, Development, and Applications covers the materials and techniques used in creating high-performance apparel, the technical aspects of developing high-performance garments, and an array of applications for high-performance clothing and wearable technology. Part One covers fabric construction for high-performance garments, from fiber types and spinning methods, to weaving, knitting, finishing, and joining techniques. Development of high-performance apparel is covered in Part Two, with particular emphasis on design and product development for function and wearer comfort. Part Three covers a range of applications and wearable technology that make use of high-performance apparel, including chapters on sportswear, protective clothing, and medical, military, and intelligent textiles. The book provides an excellent resource for all those engaged in garment development and production, and for academics engaged in research into apparel technology and textile science. - Offers a range of perspectives on high-performance apparel from an international team of authors with diverse expertise - Provides systematic and comprehensive coverage of the topic from fabric construction, through apparel design and development, to the range of current and potential applications - Presents an excellent resource for all those engaged in garment development and production, and for academics engaged in research

Originally published in 1928, the third volume of The Modern Tailor, Outfitter and Clothier details the tailoring and clothes-making industry, including design, sales practices and production methods, in the early 20th century. Extensively illustrated with photographs and diagrams throughout, it provides the reader with a detailed snapshot of the tailoring trade and its history. Volume three contents include: - Wearing of insignia - Correct Dress for the Occasion - The Art of Dress - Outfits for the Tropics - Garment Renovating - What Tailors Should Know About Woollens - Trimmings and Their Troubles - Court Dress - Scottish Dress - How to Make Trousers - How to Make a Lounge Jacket - How to Make a Waistcoat. We are republishing this vintage volume in a modern and affordable edition, complete with a new introduction and high quality reproductions of the original illustration plates.

The Waistcoat Workbook: Historical, Modern, and Genre Drafting of Waistcoats for Men and Women 1837–Present Day provides comprehensive coverage of the design, construction, and role of waistcoats from the reign of Queen Victoria to the present day in the United Kingdom. The book contains step-by-step instructions on how to draft the garments onto pattern paper from start to finish with drafting tools, including diagrams and detailed instructions on what measurements are required and how to record the information. The book also features: A brief history of waistcoats in European, and particularly British history, highlighting key points in the evolution of the garment A discussion of fabrics that would be suitable to use for the garments and what kind of interlinings and linings are best suited, depending on the main fabric chosen for the front of the garment Information on how to deal with one and two-way fabrics and challenging materials, as well as fabric analysis and pressing techniques Step-by-step instructions to construct genre waistcoats, including cosplay and Steampunk clothing Industry terminology and suppliers and stockists The Waistcoat Workbook is an excellent resource for professional film and theatre costume makers and tailors, students of costume and fashion design, and makers in cosplay, Steampunk, and re-enactment fields.