Study on "Kantha" embroidery of West Bengal, India and Bangladesh..

In Bengal, mothers swaddle their infants and cover their beds in colorful textiles that are passed down through generations. They create these kantha from layers of soft, recycled fabric strengthened with running stitches and use them as shawls, covers, and seating mats. Making Kantha, Making Home explores the social worlds shaped by the Bengali kantha that survive from the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries. In the first study of colonial-period women’s embroidery that situates these objects historically and socially, Pika Ghosh brings technique and aesthetic choices into discussion with iconography and regional culture. Ghosh uses ethnographic and archival research, inscriptions, and images to locate embroiderers’ work within domestic networks and to show how imagery from poetry, drama, prints, and watercolors expresses kantha artists’ visual literacy. Affinities with older textile practices include the region’s lucrative maritime trade in embroideries with Europe, Africa, and China. This appraisal of individual objects alongside the people and stories behind the objects’ creation elevates kantha beyond consideration as mere handcraft to recognition as art.

Chikankari is one of the finest traditional embroideries of India, a symbol of Lucknawi culture and elegant courts of the nawabs of Awadh. Chikankari appeared in Lucknow in the late 18th century and its exquisite aesthetic and craftsmanship has sustained the tradition to this day, through changing patronage and market trends. Chikankari is not just about embroidery. Its legendary finesse is based on a creative blend of the delicate embroidery with very fine dressmaking and sewing techniques. This beautifully illustrated book showcases unknown gems from personal and public collections, and brings to life the history of this unique craft tradition. The various chapters describe the mysterious origins of the craft, the range of costumes, the inspirations behind it motifs, the time-honoured elaborate production process, and the bewildering array of stitches that raised this craft to a truly exceptional art form.

This first book-length study on kanthas published outside of South Asia focuses on two premier collections, one assembled by the legendary historian of Indian art, Dr. Stella Kramrisch, the other by Jill and Sheldon Bonovitz, leading proponents of self-taught art. Created from worn-out garments imaginatively embroidered by women with motifs and tales drawn from a rich regional repertoire, kanthas traditionally were stitched as gifts for births, weddings, and other family occasions. Innovative essays by leading scholars explore the domestic, ritual, and historical contexts of the fascinating quilts in these collections--made between the mid-19th and mid-20th century in what is today Bangladesh and West Bengal, India--and trace their reinterpretation as emblems of national identity and works of art.

Traditional art of Bengal on needlework for quilting; includes some reproductions of designs.

Of All The Indian Handicrafts, Textiles Form A Class By Themselves Over Which The Rest Of The World Went Into Ecstasies From Time Immemorial.With An Enormous Store Of Myths, Symbols, Imagery And Inspiration From Other Art Forms Indian Textile-Craft Never Faced A Slump Or Stagnation. On The Other Hand It Transcended From A Craft Identity To The Status Of An Art.With Shades Of Classicism, Folk Tradition And Regional Flavour The Rich And Unrivalled Fabrics Of India Have Rightly Been Called Exquisite Poetry In Colour .Indian Fabric Art Can Be Classified Into Three Broad Categories Woven, Painted Or Printed And Embroidered. Within This Broad Outline The Present Study Pinpoints The Historical Background Of Some Representative Forms Each Unique In Its Distinctiveness.A Search For Any Linkage With Allied Art Forms As Well As Their Socio-Cultural Significance Also Provides A New Perspective.Though Apparently Widely Dispersed In Contents, They Form A Composite Tapestry Of Indian Fabric Art Tradition And Call For More Scrutiny Before Our Precious Heirlooms Are Totally Submerged In The Tide Of The Synthetic Era. The Book Is Enriched By Illustrations Of Rare Specimens Of Historical Art Fabrics Collected From Different Museums In The Country. Coupled With Extensive References This Volume Spotlights A New Facet Of Indian Art Heritage Which Will Fascinate Both The Social Scientists As Well As The Connoisseurs Of Indian Art And Culture.

In today’s world of unequal globalization, Bangladesh has drawn international attention for the spate of factory disasters that have taken the lives of numerous garment workers, mostly young women. The contemporary garment industry—and the labor organizing pushing back—draws on a long history of gendered labor division and exploitation in East Bengal, the historical antecedent of Bangladesh. Yet despite the centrality of women’s labor to anticolonial protest and postcolonial state-building, historiography has struggled with what appears to be its absence from the archive. Poulomi Saha offers an innovative account of women’s political labor in East Bengal over more than a century, one that suggests new ways to think about textiles and the gendered labors of their making. An Empire of Touch argues that women have articulated—in writing, in political action, in stitching—their own desires in their own terms. They produce narratives beyond women’s empowerment and independence as global and national projects; they refuse critical pronouncements of their own subjugation. Saha follows the historical traces of how women have claimed their own labor, contending that their political commitments are captured in the material objects of their manufacture. Her analysis of the production of historical memory through and by the bodies of women spans British colonialism and American empire, anticolonial nationalism to neoliberal globalization, depicting East Bengal between development economics and postcolonial studies. Through a material account of text and textile, An Empire of Touch crafts a new narrative of gendered political labor under empire.