In the fourteenth century, garish ornaments, bright colors, gilt, and military effects helped usher in the age of fashion in Italy. Over a short span of years important matters began to turn on the cut of a sleeve. Fashion influenced consumption and provided a stimulus that drove demand for goods and turned wealthy townspeople into enthusiastic consumers. Making wise decisions about the alarmingly expensive goods that composed a fashionable wardrobe became a matter of pressing concern, especially when the market caught on and became awash in cheaper editions of luxury wares. Focusing on the luxury trade in fashionable wear and accessories in Venice, Florence, and other towns in Italy, Gilding the Market investigates a major shift in patterns of consumption at the height of medieval prosperity, which, more remarkably, continued through the subsequent era of plague, return of plague, and increased warfare. A fine sensitivity to the demands of "le pompe," that is, the public display of private wealth, infected town life. The quest for luxuries affected markets by enlarging exchange activity and encouraging retail trades. As both consumers and tradesmen, local goldsmiths, long-distance traders, bankers, and money changers played important roles in creating this new age of fashion. In response to a greater public display of luxury goods, civic sumptuary laws were written to curb spending and extreme fashion, but these were aimed at women, youth, and children, leaving townsmen largely unrestricted in their consumption. With erudition, grace, and an evocative selection of illustrations, some reproduced in full color, Susan Mosher Stuard explores the arrival of fashion in European history.

It's time to stop just worrying about climate change, says Paul Gilding. Instead we need to brace for impact, because global crisis is no longer avoidable. The 'Great Disruption' started in 2008, with spiking food and oil prices and dramatic ecological change like the melting polar icecap. It is not simply about fossil fuels and carbon footprints. We have come to the end of Economic Growth, Version 1.0, a world economy based on consumption and waste, where we lived beyond the means of our planet's ecosystems and resources. The Great Disruption offers a stark and unflinching look at the challenge humanity faces - yet also a deeply optimistic message. The coming decades will see loss, suffering and conflict as our planetary overdraft is paid. However, they will also bring out the best humanity can offer: compassion, innovation, resilience and adaptability. Gilding tells us how to fight, and win, what he calls 'the One Degree War' to prevent catastrophic warming of the earth, and how to start today. The crisis we are in represents a rare chance to replace our addiction to growth with an ethic of sustainability, and it's already happening. It's also an unmatched business opportunity: old industries will collapse while new companies literally reshape our economy. In the aftermath of the Great Disruption, we will measure 'growth' in a new way. It will mean not quantity of stuff, but quality, and happiness, of life. And, yes, there is life after shopping. The Great Disruption is an invigorating and well-informed polemic by an advocate for sustainability and climate change who has dedicated his life to campaigning for a balanced use of Earth's limited resources. It is essential reading.

Early medieval women exercised public roles, rights, and responsibilities. Women contributed through their labor to the welfare of the community. Women played an important part in public affairs. They practiced birth control through abortion and infanticide. Women committed crimes and were indicted. They owned property and administered estates. The drive toward economic growth and expansion abroad rested on the capacity of women to staff and manage economic endeavors at home. In the later Middle Ages, the social position of women altered significantly, and the reasons why the role of women in society tended to become more restrictive are examined in these essays.

Specially designed for novice gilders, this text contains a comprehensive section on gilding techniques and finishes, followed by 17 step-by-step projects including a gilded chair, a Grecian tray, a tortoiseshell box and a fleur-de-lis dado. Patterns to trace are included.

This pioneering book is the first publication in English to devote itself to the methods, techniques and history of reverse painting and gilding on glass, often known as 'verre eglomise'. Since the Renaissance the practice has passed in and out of fashion but today it is enjoying a resurgence in popularity. Discerning designers commission decorated glass for wall and ceiling panelling and for furniture inserts, while artists are increasingly exploring the medium, pushing at its boundaries. This book is written for students, artists, conservators, curators, interested amateurs, teachers and designers, many of whom will have been patiently waiting to learn more on this topic. The history of unfired decoration on glass is recounted in depth, illustrated with hitherto unpublished pictures. In the practical section clear step-by-step projects, suitable for a beginner as well as for a more experienced artist, serve as a singular introduction to an elegant, sophisticated art. Book Review 1: This is probably the most condensed (and refreshingly so), yet comprehensive book to date on gilded and painted glass. Concise and easy to read it mainly covers the most widely used cold process of gold and painted decoration on glass. Frances wastes no time in pointing out and clearing up the true meaning of the term verre eglomise, now commonly used as a general title for any type of decoration applied to glass, but let's not give too much away. This is all covered, including both cold and hot methods, in the opening paragraphs and under the Terminology section. There are many old books from medieval manuscripts to un-translated documentation, so this book is very welcomed. There has been a long gap in the market for gilded glass, but now the art of glass decoration is enjoying such a revival, and with so many new and varied designs, this couldn't really be better timed. The book moves from techniques (ancient to modern day) to origins and the development of glass decoration throughout the world. Fabulous examples of historic and important pieces are illustrated, each with a brief description of techniques and materials used. Some of these examples show a real diversity in design and methods used. The step by step approach for the entire gilding process is also explained and shown in great detail, covering initial design process for geometric and free hand patterns, the process of laying the leaf, engraving and colouring. Recipes, materials & tools, suppliers and useful references to websites make it easy for even a complete beginner or an amateur who has never laid a single leaf, but may wish to try their hand. Even for the professional there is nothing comparable to this book. It is up to date, an excellent concise reference manual with a wealth of useful information, in essence it is a book that can teach even the most experienced restorer or gilder something new. -- Dominic Schuster for The BAFRA, British Antique Furniture Restorers Association. Book Review 2: ...This book... brings together the results of years of research by the author... time-tested arcane formulae have been thoroughly modernized; intricate order-sensitive processes are thoroughly explained. Anyone practicing today has to get many things 'right' if they expect their work to last really long-term: that is why this book is so very important. -- William Gudenrath, Resident Advisor at The Studio of The Corning Museum of Glass, NY, USA. Book Review 3: I started reading your book and I think that it is great - it contains amazing amounts of information and yet it doesn't beat about the bush. -- Nina Binnington, mirror specialist, Germany. Book Review 4: Have now read four times, ever more slowly and with increasing understanding of the variables. Your experience and comments about what can be laid on top of what have in particular been very handy indeed for working out some potential snags ....I do so agree about repeating basic instructions in each separate context - from the reader's point of view, this is a blessing. Not to have to dash back and forth to re-establish an idea from a previous chapter, keeping a thumb in the page, is genuinely sensible.... I have put pencil marks all over the pages to remind me of small important details in the text. For me, that is clear proof that this is a book... genuinely useful workaday... to learn from and work with, not just to gawp at... -- Richard Byrne, UK. Book Review 5: It's a work of gilded art! This book will encourage and teach students for years to come. -- David Smith, ornamental glass artist, UK. Book Review 6: ...I want to say how much I am enjoying the book! Its such a fantastic resource and so inspiring - a real gift to the glass world. -- Lucy Batt, glass artist, UK. Book Review 7: ... after so much time, research and careful thought, it is truly an inspiration. I am very keen to explore this use of gold and colour in what I hope eventually will be my own personal expression. -- Christopher Ainslie, glass engraver, UK. Book Review 8: ...I just got the book in the post. It's lovely! Really well done, so easy to follow and beautifully illustrated. -- Lynne Rutter, decorative artist, San Francisco, USA. Book Review 9: ...Such a handsome book, and so filled with fascinating photos and text. It is beautifully organized, and will provide many worthwhile hours for readers of all levels. Congratulations, and thank you from all of us in the gilding community. -- Ina and Allen Marx, conservators and decorative artists, USA.

"Eminent medievalist Jean Favier introduces and analyzes the political, social, moral, and economic milieux of the late Middle Ages that engendered Europe's transformation from feudalism to capitalism. ... Favier reveals that the ultimate consequence of this risk-taking was not merely the accumulation of wealth by such families as the Medici and the Fuggers, but the transposition of social and aesthetic values upon the populace, leading to the rise of the middle class."--Jacket.

A close study of clothes worn by aristocratic families and their households at the time of the Black Prince - and of Chaucer - showing Europe-wide influences. 1340 to 1363 were years remarkable for dramatic developments in fashion and for extravagant spending on costume, foreshadowing the later luxury of Richard II's court. Stella Mary Newton broke new ground with this detailed study, which discusses fourteenth-century costume in detail. She draws on surviving accounts from the Royal courts, the evidence of chronicles and poetry (often from unpublished manuscripts), and representations in painting, sculpture andmanuscript illumination. Her exploration of aspects of chivalry, particularly the choice of mottoes and devices worn at tournaments, and of the exchange of gifts of clothing between reigning monarchs, offers new insights into thesocial history of the times, and she has much to say that is relevant to the study of illuminated manuscripts of the fourteenth century. STELLA MARY NEWTON's lifelong interest in costume has been the mainspring of her work, from early days as a stage and costume designer (including designing the costumes for the first production of T.S. Eliot's Murder in the Cathedral) to her later work at the National Gallery advising on the implications ofcostume for the purpose of dating, and at the Courtauld Institute where she set up the department for the study of the history of dress.

Provides a comprehensive overview of the gender rules encountered in Europe in the period between approximately 500 and 1500 C.E.