Wave breaking represents one of the most interesting and challenging problems for fluid mechanics and physical oceanography. Over the last fifteen years our understanding has undergone a dramatic leap forward, and wave breaking has emerged as a process whose physics is clarified and quantified. Ocean wave breaking plays the primary role in the air-sea exchange of momentum, mass and heat, and it is of significant importance for ocean remote sensing, coastal and ocean engineering, navigation and other practical applications. This book outlines the state of the art in our understanding of wave breaking and presents the main outstanding problems. It is a valuable resource for anyone interested in this topic, including researchers, modellers, forecasters, engineers and graduate students in physical oceanography, meteorology and ocean engineering.

This book is intended as a handbook for professionals and researchers in the areas of Physical Oceanography, Ocean and Coastal Engineering and as a text for graduate students in these fields. It presents a comprehensive study on surface ocean waves induced by wind, including basic mathematical principles, physical description of the observed phenomena, practical forecasting techniques of various wave parameters and applications in ocean and coastal engineering, all from the probabilistic and spectral points of view. The book commences with a description of mechanisms of surface wave generation by wind and its modern modeling techniques. The stochastic and probabilistic terminology is introduced and the basic statistical and spectral properties of ocean waves are developed and discussed in detail. The bulk of material deals with the prediction techniques for waves in deep and coastal waters for simple and complex ocean basins and complex bathymetry. The various prediction methods, currently used in oceanography and ocean engineering, are described and the examples of practical calculations illustrate the basic text. An appendix provides a description of the modern methods of wave measurement, including the remote sensing techniques. Also the wave simulation methods and random data analysis techniques are discussed. In the book a lot of discoveries of the Russian and East European scientists, largely unknown in the Western literature due to the language barrier, are referred to.

Four years have elapsed since the preparation of the original Russian version of this book. This is a long time when dealing with such actively expanding fields of oceanography as research into small-scale structures and the investigation of hydro physical processes. Over this period new quick-response devices have been developed and successfully used for measurements taken in various ocean areas. Improvements in high-frequency meters used to measure hydrophysical parameters has enabled workers to obtain more accurate absolute values of the fluctuations measured by such devices. In view of this scientific progress, some of the ideas presented in this book now require additional explanation. Great care should be used in dealing with the absolute fluctuation values of hydro physical fields, since the methods used for the determination of the accuracy of the high-frequency measuring devices have been imperfect in the past. Never theless, it would appear that the results of the investigations summarized in this book have not lost their importance, and that the established laws governing small-scale pro cesses in the ocean are of a sufficiently universal nature and, as such, have not been shattered with the qualitative and quantitative advances in devices used for measurements taken in oceans. The authors feel that their work is of interest to English-speaking readers. The appearance of the English translation of the book is, to a very large extent, due to the tremendous amount of editing work brilliantly done by Prof. H. Tennekes.

This book was published in 2004. The Interaction of Ocean Waves and Wind describes in detail the two-way interaction between wind and ocean waves and shows how ocean waves affect weather forecasting on timescales of 5 to 90 days. Winds generate ocean waves, but at the same time airflow is modified due to the loss of energy and momentum to the waves; thus, momentum loss from the atmosphere to the ocean depends on the state of the waves. This volume discusses ocean wave evolution according to the energy balance equation. An extensive overview of nonlinear transfer is given, and as a by-product the role of four-wave interactions in the generation of extreme events, such as freak waves, is discussed. Effects on ocean circulation are described. Coupled ocean-wave, atmosphere modelling gives improved weather and wave forecasts. This volume will interest ocean wave modellers, physicists and applied mathematicians, and engineers interested in shipping and coastal protection.

- State-of-the-art overview of PIV applied to water waves - Invited articles, in carefully chosen fields, providing profound insight into the role of PIV in important applications - Updated overviews of the PIV method that will benefit newcomers to the field

While various volumes havepreviously been de­ bable, answer to this question lies in the obser­ vation that while whitecaps are some of the voted to such topics as droplets and bubbles, it is our conceit that this is the first volume dedi­ most apparent features associated with high sea cated to the description of the phenomenon states, they have also pro\'ed to be someofthe of oceanic whitecapping, and to a considera­ most difficult objects to measure and describe tion of the role these whitecapsplay in satellite quantitatively, and while scientists as a group marine remote sensing, in sea-salt aerosol gene­ may like to tackle difficult problems, we ration, and in a broad range ofother sea surface should not be accused ofundue modesty when processes. This observation, reOecting in part we observe that as a group we also have a finite the relatively modest attention paid until re­ tolerance for frustration and ahuman,perhaps cently by the scientific community to white­ aesthetic, prejudice in favour ofnatural pheno­ caps, is noteworthy when one considers that mena that are amcnable to detailed description. collectively whitecaps are to thegeneral public It is appropriate to note that Professor Wood­ one of the most striking features of the sea­ cock, to whom this volume is dedicated, ap­ scape.

Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters describes the observation, analysis and prediction of wind-generated waves in the open ocean, in shelf seas, and in coastal regions with islands, channels, tidal flats and inlets, estuaries, fjords and lagoons. Most of this richly illustrated book is devoted to the physical aspects of waves. After introducing observation techniques for waves, both at sea and from space, the book defines the parameters that characterise waves. Using basic statistical and physical concepts, the author discusses the prediction of waves in oceanic and coastal waters, first in terms of generalised observations, and then in terms of the more theoretical framework of the spectral energy balance. He gives the results of established theories and also the direction in which research is developing. The book ends with a description of SWAN (Simulating Waves Nearshore), the preferred computer model of the engineering community for predicting waves in coastal waters.

Ocean Dynamics’ is a concise introduction to the fundamentals of fluid mechanics, non-equilibrium thermodynamics and the common approximations for geophysical fluid dynamics, presenting a comprehensive approach to large-scale ocean circulation theory. The book is written on the physical and mathematical level of graduate students in theoretical courses of physical oceanography, meteorology and environmental physics. An extensive bibliography and index, extensive side notes and recommendations for further reading, and a comparison with the specific atmospheric physics where applicable, makes this volume also a useful reading for researchers. Each of the four parts of the book – fundamental laws, common approximations, ocean waves, oceanic turbulence and eddies, and selected aspects of ocean dynamics – starts with elementary considerations, blending then classical topics with more advanced developments of fluid mechanics and theoretical oceanography. The last part covers the theory of the global wind-driven circulation in homogeneous and stratified regimes, the circulation and overturning in the Southern Ocean, and the global meridional overturning and thermohaline-driven circulation. Emphasis is placed on simple physical models rather than access to extensive numerical results, enabling students to understand and reproduce the complex theory mostly by analytical means. All equations and models are derived in detail and illustrated by numerous figures. The appendix provides short excursions into the mathematical background, such as vector analysis, statistics, and differential equations

Ch. 1. Model for fully nonlinear ocean wave simulations derived using Fourier inversion of integral equations in 3D / J. Grue and D. Fructus -- ch. 2. Two-dimensional direct numerical simulations of the dynamics of rogue waves under wind action / J. Touboul and C. Kharif -- ch. 3. Progress in fully nonlinear potential flow modeling of 3D extreme ocean waves / S.T. Grilli [und weitere] -- ch. 4. Time domain simulation of nonlinear water waves using spectral methods / F. Bonnefoy [und weitere] -- ch. 5. QALE-FEM method and its application to the simulation of free-responses of floating bodies and overturning waves / Q.W. Ma and S. Yan -- ch. 6. Velocity calculation methods in finite element based MEL formulation / V. Sriram, S.A. Sannasiraj and V. Sundar -- ch. 7. High-order Boussinesq-type modelling of nonlinear wave phenomena in deep and shallow water / P.A. Madsen and D.R. Fuhrman -- ch. 8. Inter-comparisons of different forms of higher-order Boussinesq equations / Z.L. Zou, K.Z. Fang and Z.B. Liu -- ch. 9. Method of fundamental solutions for fully nonlinear water waves / D.-L. Young, N.-J. Wu and T.-K. Tsay -- ch. 10. Application of the finite volume method to the simulation of nonlinear water waves / D. Greaves -- ch. 11. Developments in multi-fluid finite volume free surface capturing method / D.M. Causon, C.G. Mingham and L. Qian -- ch. 12. Numerical computation methods for strongly nonlinear wave-body interactions / M. Kashiwagi, C. Hu and M. Sueyoshi -- ch. 13. Smoothed particle hydrodynamics for water waves / R.A. Dalrymple [und weitere] -- ch. 14. Modelling nonlinear water waves with RANS and LES SPH models / R. Issa [und weitere] -- ch. 15. MLPG_R method and Its application to various nonlinear water waves / Q.W. Ma -- ch. 16. Large Eddy simulation of the hydrodynamics generated by breaking waves / P. Lubin and J.-P. Caltagirone -- ch. 17. Recent advances in turbulence modeling for unsteady breaking waves / Q. Zhao and S.W. Armfield -- ch. 18. Freak waves and their interaction with ships and offshore structures / G.F. Clauss

Ocean Wave Dynamics is the most up-to-date book of its kind on the three main processes responsible for the generation and evolution of ocean waves: (i) atmospheric input from the wind, (ii) wave breaking and (iii) nonlinear interactions.Ocean waves are important for many reasons. They are the major environmental impact on in the design of coastal or offshore structures. Ocean waves are also fundamental to the processes of coastal flooding and beach erosion. They will play a major role in storm related coastal flooding which will rise in frequency as a result of sea level rise. Ocean waves are also an important part of the coupled ocean-atmosphere system. They determine the roughness of the ocean surface and hence have an impact on winds, fluxes of energy, gases and heat to the ocean and even the stability of ice sheets.Containing the latest research on ocean waves, it is a valuable resource for an overview of knowledge in this important field.Related Link(s)