Process-based morphodynamic modelling is one of the relatively new tools at the disposal of coastal scientists, engineers and managers. On paper, it offers the possibility to analyse morphological processes and to investigate the effects of various measures one might consider to alleviate some problems. For these to be applied in practice, a model should be relatively straightforward to set up. It should be accurate enough to represent the details of interest, it should run long enough and robustly to see the real effects happen, and the physical processes represented in such a way that the sediment generally goes in the right direction at the right rate. Next, practitioners must be able to judge if the patterns and outcomes of the model are realistic and finally, translate these colour pictures and vector plots to integrated parameters that are relevant to the client or end user. In a nutshell, this book provides an in-depth review of ways to model coastal processes, including many hands-on exercises.

This book unifies and enhances the accessibility of contemporary scholarly research on advances in coastal modeling. A comprehensive spectrum of innovative models addresses the wide diversity and multifaceted aspects of coastal research on the complex natural processes, dynamics, interactions and responses of the coastal supersystem and its associated subsystems. The twenty-one chapters, contributed by internationally recognized coastal experts from fourteen countries, provide invaluable insights on the recent advances and present state-of-the-art knowledge on coastal models which are essential for not only illuminating the governing coastal process and various characteristics, but also for understanding and predicting the dynamics at work in the coastal system. One of the unique strengths of the book is the impressive and encompassing presentation of current functional and operational coastal models for all those concerned with and interested in the modeling of seas, oceans and coasts. In addition to chapters modeling the dynamic natural processes of waves, currents, circulatory flows and sediment transport there are also chapters that focus on the modeling of beaches, shorelines, tidal basins and shore platforms. The substantial scope of the book is further strengthened with chapters concentrating on the effects of coastal structures on nearshore flows, coastal water quality, coastal pollution, coastal ecological modeling, statistical data modeling, and coupling of coastal models with geographical information systems.

This book is geared for advanced level research in the general subject area of remote sensing and modeling as they apply to the coastal marine environment. The various chapters focus on the latest scientific and technical advances in the service of better understanding coastal marine environments for their care, conservation and management. Chapters specifically deal with advances in remote sensing coastal classifications, environmental monitoring, digital ocean technological advances, geophysical methods, geoacoustics, X-band radar, risk assessment models, GIS applications, real-time modeling systems, and spatial modeling. Readers will find this book useful because it summarizes applications of new research methods in one of the world’s most dynamic and complicated environments. Chapters in this book will be of interest to specialists in the coastal marine environment who deals with aspects of environmental monitoring and assessment via remote sensing techniques and numerical modeling.

Laboratory physical models are a valuable tool for coastal engineers. Physical models help us to understand the complex hydrodynamic processes occurring in the nearshore zone and they provide reliable and economic engineering design solutions.This book is about the art and science of physical modeling as applied in coastal engineering. The aim of the book is to consolidate and synthesize into a single text much of the knowledge about physical modeling that has been developed worldwide.This book was written to serve as a graduate-level text for a course in physical modeling or as a reference text for engineers and researchers engaged in physical modeling and laboratory experimentation. The first three chapters serve as an introduction to similitude and physical models, covering topics such as advantages and disadvantages of physical models, systems of units, dimensional analysis, types of similitude and various hydraulic similitude criteria applicable to coastal engineering models.Practical application of similitude principles to coastal engineering studies is covered in Chapter 4 (Hydrodynamic Models), Chapter 5 (Coastal Structure Models) and Chapter 6 (Sediment Transport Models). These chapters develop the appropriate similitude criteria, discuss inherent laboratory and scale effects and overview the technical literature pertaining to these types of models. The final two chapters focus on the related subjects of laboratory wave generation (Chapter 7) and measurement and analysis techniques (Chapter 8).

Most of the Earth's surface is covered by water. Many aspects of our everyday lives and activities may be affected by water waves in some way. Sometimes, the waves can cause disaster. One of the examples was the tsunami that occurred in the Indian Ocean on 26 December 2004. This indicates how important it is for us to fully understand water waves, in particular the very large ones. One way to do so is to perform numerical simulation based on the nonlinear theory. Considerable research advances have been made in this area over the past decade by developing various numerical methods and applying them to emerging problems: however, until now there has been no comprehensive book to reflect these advances. This unique volume aims to bridge this gap.

Advances in Coastal Structure Design presents a compendium of 10 papers addressing the state-of-the-art advances in Coastal Structure Design by internationally renowned authors. The papers focus on the tools and techniques used to analyze coastal processes and design engineering solutions to them. The first three chapters present multiple view points and policies regarding how the coastal-structure debate in the United States came to be and how policies are evolving to handle issues concerning the interactions of structures with shorelines. Including a paper on the global perspective surrounding the policy, design, construction and monitoring of coastal structures and the third demonstrating how a good knowledge of multi-disciplinary areas of geotechnical, geologic, and seismic conditions are essential to successful planning and design of coastal structures. The following chapter discusses a key aspect of coastal structure design, which is modeling. The remaining papers present insightful information on: wave distributions and probabilities; an overview of breakwater design and construction since the 18th century; and advances in structural design aspects on performance-based design. The final chapter demonstrates how sand, vegetation, cobbles, and small structures can be effectively utilized to provide coastal protection. CONTENTS INCLUDE: Coastal Structure Debate: Public and Policy Aspects; International Perspectives on Coastal Structure Uses; Geotechnical Consideration for Coastal Structure Design; Numerical Modeling as a Design Tool for Coastal Structures; Physical Modeling Considerations for Coastal Structures; Selection of a Design Wave Height for Coastal Engineering; Historical Overview of Rubble Mound Structure Design and Construction; Advances in Breakwater and Revetment Design; Design Aspects of Groins and Jetties; Application of Coastal Engineering in Coastal Zone Management.

Ch. 1. Model for fully nonlinear ocean wave simulations derived using Fourier inversion of integral equations in 3D / J. Grue and D. Fructus -- ch. 2. Two-dimensional direct numerical simulations of the dynamics of rogue waves under wind action / J. Touboul and C. Kharif -- ch. 3. Progress in fully nonlinear potential flow modeling of 3D extreme ocean waves / S.T. Grilli [und weitere] -- ch. 4. Time domain simulation of nonlinear water waves using spectral methods / F. Bonnefoy [und weitere] -- ch. 5. QALE-FEM method and its application to the simulation of free-responses of floating bodies and overturning waves / Q.W. Ma and S. Yan -- ch. 6. Velocity calculation methods in finite element based MEL formulation / V. Sriram, S.A. Sannasiraj and V. Sundar -- ch. 7. High-order Boussinesq-type modelling of nonlinear wave phenomena in deep and shallow water / P.A. Madsen and D.R. Fuhrman -- ch. 8. Inter-comparisons of different forms of higher-order Boussinesq equations / Z.L. Zou, K.Z. Fang and Z.B. Liu -- ch. 9. Method of fundamental solutions for fully nonlinear water waves / D.-L. Young, N.-J. Wu and T.-K. Tsay -- ch. 10. Application of the finite volume method to the simulation of nonlinear water waves / D. Greaves -- ch. 11. Developments in multi-fluid finite volume free surface capturing method / D.M. Causon, C.G. Mingham and L. Qian -- ch. 12. Numerical computation methods for strongly nonlinear wave-body interactions / M. Kashiwagi, C. Hu and M. Sueyoshi -- ch. 13. Smoothed particle hydrodynamics for water waves / R.A. Dalrymple [und weitere] -- ch. 14. Modelling nonlinear water waves with RANS and LES SPH models / R. Issa [und weitere] -- ch. 15. MLPG_R method and Its application to various nonlinear water waves / Q.W. Ma -- ch. 16. Large Eddy simulation of the hydrodynamics generated by breaking waves / P. Lubin and J.-P. Caltagirone -- ch. 17. Recent advances in turbulence modeling for unsteady breaking waves / Q. Zhao and S.W. Armfield -- ch. 18. Freak waves and their interaction with ships and offshore structures / G.F. Clauss

Accompanying CD-ROM in pocket at the back of book

This book is an introductory treatment to coastal and estuarine processes for earth scientists or engineers. Suitable for a first course on the subject, it covers water waves, surf zone hydrodynamics, tides in oceans and estuaries, storm surges, estuarine mixing, basic sediment transport, coastal morphodynamics and coastal groundwater dynamics. The book contains a substantial amount of new material. For example, the explicit, analytical treatment of transient, forced long waves strongly enhances the discussion on tsunami, storm surges and surf beat. The treatment of turbulent mixing includes finite mixing length effects, which provide an explanation for differential diffusion of different sediment sizes in suspension. The recently discovered effects of acceleration skewness and boundary layer streaming are also included in the basic sediment transport models. In addition, the treatment of beach groundwater dynamics: The mechanisms by which waves as well as tides drive groundwater motion, builds the link between the previously unconnected fields of coastal hydraulics and regional groundwater modeling. To serve as an effective reference book for professionals, the book is fully indexed and comprehensively cross referenced.

Features concepts in coastal engineering and their application to coastal processes and disaster prevention works. This title describes basic concepts of coastal engineering, dealing mainly with wave-induced physical problems. It consists of the author's results of 30 years' scientific research on the progress of coastal sediment transport study.