By examining the relationship of the individual waves in an ocean wave record and the power density spectrum (PDS), it is demonstrated that the PDS conventionally obtained using spectral analysis can be reasonably approximated, except at the very low frequency end, by a pseudo-power density spectrum constructed from the individual heights and periods contained in the record. The very low frequencies seen in the side bands of the PDS are examined as products of amplitude modulation by analogy with simulated wave records and as an indication of the presence of wave groups. In addition, wave groups are identified and their properties determined in 19 selected ocean wave records by integrating the wave record using the procedure of Funke and Mansard (1979). (Author).

Wave Mechanics and Wave Loads on Marine Structures provides a new perspective on the calculation of wave forces on ocean structures, unifying the deterministic and probabilistic approaches to wave theory and combining the methods used in field and experimental measurement.Presenting his quasi-determinism (QD) theory and approach of using small-scale field experiments (SSFEs), author Paolo Boccotti simplifies the findings and techniques honed in his ground-breaking work to provide engineers and researchers with practical new methods of analysis. Including numerous worked examples and case studies, Wave Mechanics and Wave Loads on Marine Structures also discusses and provides useful FORTRAN programs, including a subroutine for calculating particle velocity and acceleration in wave groups, and programs for calculating wave loads on several kinds of structures. - Solves the conceptual separation of deterministic and stochastic approaches to wave theory seen in other resources through the application of quasi-determinism (QD) theory - Combines the distinct experimental activities of field measurements and wave tank experiment using small-scale field experiments (SSFEs) - Simplifies and applies the ground-breaking work and techniques of this leading expert in wave theory and marine construction

A computerized method for the identification of wave groups and determination of their properties from digital wave data was developed. Analysis was performed on 208 Southern California wave records. It was found that the number of waves in a group is independent of both the spectral peak period and the variance of the wave record. However, the amount of energy contained in wave groups relative to that in the record increases as the total energy of the record increases. Also, average group periods of greater than the spectral peak period are not uncommon. Both an increase in group energy relative to the wave record and also the number of waves in a group increase the possibility of obtaining an extreme wave height in a group relative to the significant wave height of the record. Finally, it is apparent that as the average group period approaches the spectral peak period of a record, all other highly dependent wave group properties take on their maximum values. (Author).

This thoroughly revised and expanded edition of the much acclaimed Encyclopedia of Coastal Science edited by M. Schwarz (Springer 2005), presents an interdisciplinary approach that includes biology, ecology, engineering, geology, geomorphology, oceanography, remote sensing, technological advances, and anthropogenic impacts on coasts. Within its covers the Encyclopedia of Coastal Science, 2nd ed. brings together and coordinates many aspects of coastal and related sciences that are widely dispersed in the scientific literature. The broadly interdisciplinary subject matter of this volume features contributions by over 280 well-known international specialists in their respective fields and provides an abundance of figures in full-color with line drawings and photographs, and other illustrations such as satellite images. Not only does this volume offer a large number of new and revised entries, it also includes an illustrated glossary of coastal geomorphology, extensive bibliographic citations, and cross-references. It provides a comprehensive reference work for students, scientific and technical professionals as well as administrators, managers, and informed lay readers. Reviews from the first edition: Awarded for Excellence in Scholarly and Professional Publishing: “Honorable Mention”, in the category Single Volume/Science from the Association of American Publishers (AAP) 2005. "The contents and approach are interdisciplinary and, under a single cover, one finds subjects normally scattered throughout scientific literature." "The topics cover a broad spectrum, so does the geographic range of the contributors. ... besides geomorphologists, biologists, ecologists, engineers, geographers, geologists, oceanographers and technologists will find information related to their respective fields ... . Inclusion of appendices ... is very useful. The illustrated glossary of geomorphology will prove very useful for many of us ... ." Roger H. Charlier, Journal of Coastal Research, Volume 21, Issue 4, Page 866, July 2005. "It is an excellent work that should be included in any carefully selected list of best science reference books of the year "Summing Up: Highly recommended. " M.L. Larsgaard, Choice, Volume 43, Issue 6, Page 989, February 2006. "This volume is a comprehensive collection of articles covering all aspects of the subject: social and economic, engineering, coastal processes, habitats, erosion, geological features, research and observation." ... "As with similar works reviewed, I chose to read articles on familiar topics to see if they covered the expected, and some on unfamiliar topics to see if they could be readily understood. The book passed both tests, but the style is denser and more fact-filled than most of the encyclopedias I have reviewed." John Goodier, Reference Reviews, Volume 20, Issue 2, pages 35-36, 2006

Grounded in current research, this second edition has been thoroughly updated, featuring new topics, global examples and online material. Written for students studying coastal geomorphology, this is the complete guide to the processes at work on our coastlines and the features we see in coastal systems across the world.

Wave breaking represents one of the most interesting and challenging problems for fluid mechanics and physical oceanography. Over the last fifteen years our understanding has undergone a dramatic leap forward, and wave breaking has emerged as a process whose physics is clarified and quantified. Ocean wave breaking plays the primary role in the air-sea exchange of momentum, mass and heat, and it is of significant importance for ocean remote sensing, coastal and ocean engineering, navigation and other practical applications. This book outlines the state of the art in our understanding of wave breaking and presents the main outstanding problems. It is a valuable resource for anyone interested in this topic, including researchers, modellers, forecasters, engineers and graduate students in physical oceanography, meteorology and ocean engineering.