In spring 1973 a series of field experiments was initiated to investigate the three dimensional structure of a coastal hydrodynamic system. These field investigations supported the concept that short-crested wave theory is applicable to modeling of incident wind-wave transformations from offshore to the outer surf zone. Application of short-crested wave theory to the design of coastal hydrodynamic models was also considered appropriate because of the theories inherent three dimensional structure. Concurrent with this work two field experiments were conducted in 1974 and 1976 to measure vertical and horizontal distribution of longshore current velocity and to monitor temporal variations in current velocity at a point. In fall 1978 a series of experimental laboratory investigations was initiated to make precise measurements, at close spatial intervals, of wave height decay after breaking. These experiments were carried out to determine a wave height decay expression based upon the assumption that an appropriate physical conceptualization of wave energy dissipation after breaking must consider turbulence dominant to bottom friction. This report presents a detailed summary of these investigations and their results. (Author).

This book provides a comprehensive description of the latest theory-supported numerical technologies, as well as scientific and engineering applications for water surface waves. Its contents are crafted to cater to a step-by-step learning of computational wave dynamics and ocean wave modeling. It provides a comprehensive description from underlying theories of free-surface flows, to practical computational applications for coastal and ocean engineering on the basis of computational fluid dynamics (CFD).The text may be used as a textbook for advanced undergraduate students and graduate students to understand the theoretical background of wave computations, and the recent progress of computational techniques for free-surface and interfacial flows, such as Volume of Fluid (VOF), Constrained Interpolation Profile (CIP), Lagrangian Particle (SPH, MPS), Distinct Element (DEM) and Euler-Lagrange Hybrid Methods.It is also suitable for researchers and engineers who wish to apply CFD techniques to ocean modeling and practical coastal problems involving sediment transport, wave-structure interaction and surf zone flows.

Published by the American Geophysical Union as part of the Coastal and Estuarine Sciences, Volume 4. The AGU Monograph Series on Coastal and Estuarine Regimes provides timely summaries and reviews of major process and regional studies, both observational and theoretical, and of theoretical and numerical models. It grew out of an IAPSO/SCOR/ECOR working group initiative several years ago intended to enhance scientific communications on this topic. The series' authors and editors are drawn from the international community. The ultimate goal is to stimulate bringing the theory, observations, and modeling of coastal and estuarine regimes together on the global scale.

Three-dimensional hydrodynamic modelling of estuarine and coastal basins is an efficient means of analysing and predicting water flow characteristics for further use in sedimentation, morphological and environmental studies. To date, two-stage solution schemes have generally been used in such models, whereas in this thesis a one-stage solution formulation is introduced and applied for three-dimensional coastal hydrodynamic modelling. The governing hydrodynamic equations are reviewed in their integral form by satisfying the conservation laws of mass and momentum and rewriting them in their differential equation form for a three-dimensional spatial domain. The original continuity equation is modified for the cells in the surface layer of a multi-layer computational domain, giving rise to the establishment of the one-stage solution algorithm. The general momentum equations are rewritten, with regard to the conditions applicable to coastal waters. The integral form of the governing hydrodynamic equations have been discretized by applying the finite volume method. An orthogonal Cartesian co-ordinate system have been chosen for discretizing the computational domain. The equations have been discretized for mesh cells within the boundary and, consequently, corrections made to the discretized equations for the cells adjacent to a boundary. The one-stage solution formulation is explained in detail for solving the discretized equations using the Alternating Direction Implicit scheme. A new computer model, namely THEMFIV, has been developed for three-dimensional numerical flow simulation, based upon the one-stage algorithm. A series of experimental tests, undertaken for a laboratory model rectangular harbour, are detailed. The measured velocity values are presented to show the velocity field profile within the rectangular harbour. The numerical model has been run for several case studies to simulate (1) two-dimensional tidal circulation in the rectangular harbour, (2) three-dimensional flow.

Numerical Models for Submerged Breakwaters: Coastal Hydrodynamics and Morphodynamics discusses the practice of submerged breakwaters, an increasingly popular tool used as a coastal defense system because of their amenity and aesthetics as compared to common emerged beach protection measures. The book is the perfect guide for experienced professionals who wish to keep abreast of the latest best practices or those who are entering the field and need a reference, explaining new and traditional numerical methodologies for designing submerged breakwaters and measuring their performance. In addition, the book provides case studies, examples, and practical methods for data selection and pre-processing, model setup, calibration, and analysis. - Case studies and worked-out examples illustrate different concepts and methods - Offers practical methods for Data Selection and Pre-Processing - Provides simplified prediction tools for practical applications

In the last two decades, one of the most important research accomplishments in coastal hydrodynamics has been the development of accurate numerical models for nonlinear water wave propagation over a complex bathymetry from a relatively deep-water depth into the surf zone. This book contains five excellent papers reviewing different methodologies in various aspects of wave modeling; the authors are active researchers who have made original contributions to these subjects.

Sections 1-2. Keyword Index.--Section 3. Personal author index.--Section 4. Corporate author index.-- Section 5. Contract/grant number index, NTIS order/report number index 1-E.--Section 6. NTIS order/report number index F-Z.